Toulouse is the capital of the départment of Haute-Garonne, and of the region Midi-Pyrénées. You need longer than you’d think to enjoy this lively and beautiful city.
Every time building work is undertaken in the city, some artefact is discovered. The Romans were responsible for Reine Pédanque aqueduct, of which a few traces remain. In the 5th century, Visigoths won the region and Toulouse became their capital. These warriors walled in their city, and built the Daurade church before being expelled to Spain. The town was then governed by a dynasty of Counts for several centuries. The Narbonnais chateau, which stood on the site of the present Palais de justice, is associated with this period.
Several sieges followed, and the town had to shelter behind its ramparts, which ran along the route of where the Grands Boulevards are today.
The rich pastel merchants built the most beautiful houses in Toulouse around the beginning of the renaissance period. With their “blue gold” as it was known, they were able to pay the finest architects, such as Nicholas Bachelier, who also designed le pont-neuf. Following the slump in demand for pastel, the town fell into a lethargic state. Aerospatiale saved the day at the beginning of the 20th century, and the economy picked up again.
The enormous number of Spanish immigrants in Toulouse means that the ambience is lively and nocturnal. (To give you an idea: look in the phone book – there are more Martinez than Martins!) The student population also adds to the party atmosphere in the late-night bars. Local musicians Zebda and Nougaro have a strong local following, as well as in France as a whole.
Culturally, there is an endless supply of plays and musical events. The new Theatre de la Cité and the recently converted abattoir that is now the museum of contemporary art, are the most recent cultural additions to the town. Also of interest: The excellent flea market around the St-Sernin church on Sunday morning.
Gastronomically, the only criticism that you can make of the city is that its got too much choice, and that the food is filling (not to say heavy). Of course, Cassoulet is the best known, but there is a vast variety of the best French cuisine. With such a large intake of calories, you may feel like you need a game of rugby – and go ahead if you do, this sport is very popular in Toulouse. Thousands of Toulousains turn out to welcome and support their team, and the party goes on all night if they win.
Recovery from the party takes place the next day, on the sunny banks of the Garonne river. Most locals say that it’s their favourite part of the city. Try it, and you’ll see why.
