In 354 AD the Roman Emperor, Constantius II stationed the Roman 7th Army in Chalon (then called Cabyllona) for an invasion against the brother kings, Gundomad and Vadomar of the Alamanni. However, not having had received supplies, the Roman troops revolted, and were pacified by the grand chamberlain Eusebius with money.
The bishopric of Chalon-sur-Saône, a suffragan of the Archdiocese of Lyon since Roman times, was merged into the diocese of Autun shortly after the French Revolution.
Chalon is best known as the birthplace of photography. Joseph Nicéphore-Niépce the inventor of this art form, was born in Chalon in 1765 and has a lycée (secondary school) named after him. A must-see it the Musée Niépce, 28 quai des Messageries (daily except Tues: July & Aug 10am-12.30pm & 1.30-6pm; Sept-June 9.30-11.45am & 2-5.45pm; €3.10, free on Wed & first Sun of the month), just downstream from Pont St-Laurent. The museum possesses a fascinating range of cameras, from the first machine ever to the Apollo moon mission's equipment, plus a number of 007-type spy-camera devices, all attractively displayed under a set of glass domes. Upstairs is a library of works on photography and a space for temporary exhibitions.
Another famous resident is Dominique Vivant Denon (1747-1825) who was involved in the creation of the Louvre Museum, converting the palace into a Museum after the French Revolution.
Chalon is in the wine growing area, the Côte Chalonnaise, which lies between the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune in the north and the Maconnais in the south. Famous wines such as Mercury, Givry, Montagny and Rully come from here. Visit the Maison des Vins de la Côte Chalonnaise at 2 Promenade Ste-Marie to sample these fine wines.
This is a lively town on the River Saône with a market three times a week at the Place St-Vincent. The cathedral square has a café society with Le Moulin à Cafe and speciality shops such as Légendes Gourmandes. There are fine half-timbered houses overlooking the Place; Rue de Châtelet and Grande Rue are worth visiting also to see 17th and 14th century facades. The cathedral itself is a good example of Romanesque architecture.
On the subject of artists, Audrey and Patrick Leclercq make reproduction Celtic jewellery at Atelier du Bijou Creatif, 3 Rue du Palais de Justice.
The bakery, La Meulière, in Rue Général Leclerc is a particular favourite for whole cereal breads, biscuits, jams and cheesy wafers for apéros.
A great way to enjoy the river at a leisurely pace is to take the bateau-mouche, La Delta, on a sightseeing tour. Trips range from an excursion cruise of an hour and a half for 11 euros up to a dinner cruise.
The old town is just back from the river around Grande-Rue and rue du Châtelet. At the junction of these two streets stands a fifteenth-century timber-framed house, and around the quarter you'll find a number of half-timbered jettied facades. Nearby, 200m to the west on place de l'Hôtel-de-Ville, is the Musée Denon (daily except Tues & hols 9.30am-noon & 2-5.30pm; €3.10, free on Wed & first Sun of the month), whose most vaunted exhibit is the 18,000-year-old Volgu flint, rated one of the finest stone tools yet discovered. Apart from the usual collection of bits and pieces excavated nearby, look out for the local furniture and a painting by Vuillard.
The other interesting target in town is the Maison des Vins on Promenade Ste-Marie (Mon-Sat 9am-7pm), where you can taste and buy Côte Chalonnaise wines, chosen from the wines of 44 local villages by a choice committee of professional wine tasters.
