Les Albères (meaning "high pastures"), after which many villages are named, is the mountain range between the Pyrenees and the sea. Separated by the pass at Le Perthus, they appear a little forlorn and usually lose any snow they may have accumulated before, for instance, Canigou, a few kilometres north-west.
The mountains are intersected by numerous short valleys, many originally used as smugglers trails but no longer passable by normal road vehicle. Forests cover both flanks and streams gush over waterfalls. Rare Massanaise cattle survive here but most of the farming is in vineyards immediately below the valleys where the land is flatter. Most of the terraced vineyards have now been abandoned and the land sold to developers. Most of the resulting homes are holiday homes for rich city dwellers.
Some areas are so isolated that small monasteries and other religious buildings are frequently stumbled upon, usually by accident.
This is not driving country but steep walking country. However, it is possible to drive almost to the top of Pic Neulos. Once, there stood a tracking station which ceased to have any importance when Spain joined the European Community and passports became virtualy worthless on the mainland. It is now a radio transmitter. It still has its high fences and helicopter pad. A forest trail skirts the edge of the peak towards the east and there are plenty of pic-nic spots in the forest.
Not to be missed is the small restaurant and coffee shop at Col de l'Oulliat.
At Lavail, there is a small church dating from 9th century, mentioned in a document from Pope Louis the Pious in AD823. Before that, the granite building stood in nearby St André before being moved to the present location and dedicated to St Martin. Falling into neglect because of its isolation, it was rebuilt in the 12th century. It has a broken nave barrel vault and semi-circular apse.
During the crusade of Philippe III against Catalans in 1285, French troops found themselves blocked by the Col du Roussillon at Perthus. Unable to pass through to the coast, they had to buy the services of the Abbot of St Génis to get a guide who led the troops across the valley of Lavail.
