Castelnou is a lovely little village, in a beautiful setting of rolling hills in the eastern Pyrenees. The village, sitting in the shadow of the castle that towers above, and also that of the famous Mount Canigou, dates from the 10th century. The village is entered through a large stone arch / gate, dating from the 14th century, and is part of the fortifications that were at that time erected around the village. The narrow cobbled streets in the village are impossible to walk along without having a sense of the thousands who have already passed the same way - a real step back in time.
The castle itself, high on a rock above the village, and, from 990, the castle served as the administrative and military capital of the Viscount of Vallespir. Its irregular pentagonal plan follows the rocky outcrop on which it was built, this elevated position providing defence against enemy attacks.
The castle was taken by the troops of James II of Majorca en 1286, and again in 1483. Largely demolished in 1559, it was no longer restored or inhabited and deteriorated throughout the 17th and 18th centuries. At the time of the French Revolution it became the property of the commune. It was sold to viscount Satgé in 1875 and, by 1900, had become again an elegant and habitable fortress. Having been ravaged by a terrible fire, in 1987 it was sold and has since been restored.
Like other villages among the 'most beautiful villages of France' Castelnou has attracted an array of artists and artisans. Happily there is still little to spoil the feeling that you have entered another time and place.
There is also a fine - simple and understated - romanesque style church to visit in the village.
