Prats-de-Mollo Is the last town in France before heading into Spain. It is close to the head of the Tech River. The road actually does run as far as the village of La Preste, close to the source of the Tech, but is impassable beyond. To get to Spain, backtrack to Prats-de-Mollo and then go south, straight up the cliff face. Convinced that the road goes nowhere, you will zig-zag for many miles through forests until bursting out onto a high plateau, often impassable in winter.
It is then a long, very tedious, drive over the plateau and down into Spain. Don't come this way if you are in a hurry.
The walled town is a maze of narrow cobbled streets and ancient mediaeval architecture. With only 1,100 inhabitants, it nevertheless boasts numerous hotels, restaurants and cafés, the narrow streets forming terraces linked together by stairways and passages. A covered walkway leads directly from the town to Fort Lagarde, an impressive fort built by Marshall Vauban in 1683 to strengthen the town's defences. Its position also makes it ideal as a starting point for endless walking and climbing itineraries. Only a few kilometres away lies La Preste a spa town famous for its waters and treatment of urinary infections and related diseases. In the 14th century, people with leprosy used to bathe in the 'Leper's pool' to help to relieve their symptoms.
During the Spanish Civil War it was the location of a refuge financed by the pacifist organisation War Resisters' International and run by Professor José Brocca.
Built on the banks of the river Tech, surrounded by mountains, Prats de Mollo was one of the most important border towns in the area, and today still boasts much evidence of its rich and glorious past, both architectural and traditional.
During February, two events traditionally take place at Prats: the Fete de l'Ours (bear festival) and Carnaval. Both are full of fascinating traditions handed down over the years. For example, one of the events during carnival week is the Ball de la Posta. The 'posta' is a plank of 1m50 long and 30cm wide, which a picture of a pretty girl at one end, representing the virgin, and a devil on the other side. Dancers range themselves in couples opposite the carrier of la posta and his colleague who carries a wooden sword. The dancers advance three times, in couples, towards the armed pair. The first time they bow, the second time the lady must kiss the face on the posta, choosing devil or virgin, and the third time, she gets a smack on the bottom with the plank! In olden days, this dance was a judgement on vice and virtue!
