Borrowdale is not so much a place as a collection of small places strung out along what has to be the most beautiful and diverse valleys in Cumbria, if not in the UK. Within its length of just a few miles is a wide lake, a narrow gorge and an almost hidden collection of valleys. Now, it is possible to drive from Keswick, through the valley and then out at the top end via Honister Pass to Buttermere and Crummock Water.
Starting at the top end as you come off the steep fell at Honister is Seatoller with its collection of barns and farms, one of which is a Tourist Information Centre and another the lovely Yew Tree Restaurant. Others are farms and/or bed and breakfast establishments. It is difficult to imagine, being so close to Keswick, that just to the south are the valleys of Wasdale, Ennerdale and Langdale, in an entirely different part of the Lake District. Walkers appreciate the closeness of these valleys far more than drivers who cannot get between them.
After Seatoller, you are joined by the Seathwaite Valley, the wettest place in England. Farming here is certainly a trial. Immediately after, you enter Stonethwaite, flanked by the breathtaking Greenup Edge, towering above the Langstrath Hotel. The many streams which cross the road make up the River Derwent, holy to the druids. Later, when entering the Borrowdale Gorge, it is almost possible to feel that they are still here, at least in spirit.
Before entering the gorge, you pass through Rosthwaite with its 2 adjacent hotels. There is also a farm B & B plus a village post office here. Soon, the valley narrows and the river roars over rapids on your left in the rainy season and the enormous Bowder Stone (not to be missed) is off to your right.
At the end of the gorge is the hamlet of Grange in Borrowdale with its quaint tea shops and highly unusual double arched bridge. A great many pic-nics have been taken beside the river. There are also public toilets here.
The cliff face towers up to your right, off which tumble the Lodore Falls. There is a footpath up to them beside the Stakis Hotel. Above the falls is the wonderful village of Watendlath which is accessed from a tiny lane, difficult to turn into, on the right. The incline is steep, over several cattle grids but, at the top of the first section, is the most photographed place in all the Lakes, Ashness Bridge. Many stop here and do not see the delights higher up this narrow lane.
The road continues to climb into woods, where there are a couple of car parks. Stop in one of them and walk to the edge of the precipice, keeping a firm hold of children because the drop is vertical for a long way down. But the view across the lake to Skiddaw, especially in winter when it is capped with snow, is indescribable.
After "Surprise View", the lane narrows and continues to climb to Watendlath. In the mid seventies, it was possible to buy a pot of tea for six here for 23p from one of the farms which served the few visitors. There was no car park then, but there is now and things are a little more commercial, but by no means spoiled. Walk round the lake, up the fell, across the Lords Tarn, or further. You are in a world of your own.
Finally, further mention should me made of Derwent Water at the foot of this road. Certainly it is Keswick's great attraction, and second only to Windermere in popularity, although it avoids the larger lake's bustle and noise...in fact a ten mile per hour speed limit applies. Its surrounding scenery too is more dramatic and can be more impressive when viewed from Friar's Crag, with the high hills to the west, the crag walls to the east and the Jaws of Borrowdale ahead. It is well wooded and the colour changes in spring and autumn are sublime. The lake has a normal depth of 72 feet. Derwent Water has always been a 'highway', and there is a regular boat service with 'request stops' at jetties. For information, the lake contains trout, perch and pike.
The lake is three miles long, and a mile wide. The lake incidentally has four islands - St Herbert's Isle in the centre was traditionally the retreat of the Saint-friend of St.Cuthbert. Derwent Island is the largest of the lakes four islands and lies just a mere stone's throw offshore. It was once a sanctuary for the German miners of old, and was bought in 1778 by one Joseph Pocklington...an eccentric. He literally covered his island with bizarre buildings which were then used as a background to his regattas and mock battles on the lake. In 1884 the Marshall family occupied the house for over a hundred years. Then, in 1951, ownership was transferred to the National Trust.
|
