Upon crossing the ridge close to Thwaites, many an unwary traveller finds himself compelled to stop suddenly, and sometimes dangerously, at the sight of the sea at the bottom of what must be the shortest valley in the area. It is not the length of the valley which is spectacular (about 3 miles), nor the width (less than a mile). It is the amount of varying scenery in such a short space.
The valley, once flooded to a depth of over 70 metres, is flanked on the north by the massive hump of Black Combe and the south by the granite outcrops above Ghyll Scaur Quarry (off the Millom Road).
Black Combe (just a few metres short of being able to be called a mountain) is made up of one of the earliest Cambrian rocks, Skiddaw Slate. Although resembling a volcano from a certain angle, there is not a trace of any kind igneous activity. The sole evidence of heat being a thin white metamorphic scar crossing the tiny beck which drains the combe into Whicham Beck.
There has been, however, much igneous activity on the southern side of the valley where the craggy outcrops contrast the smooth bulk of Black Combe. The name of the hill has nothing to do with black (the colour) nor combe (the valley). Rather it is a corruption of Bleak Camber (the rounded hump upon which nothing would grow). There is not a single tree on Black Combe due to the acidity and shallow depth of the soil. There is, however, sufficient depth to produce a great variety of grasses and heathers. Perhaps this is the reason why the area has been noted for centuries as excellent grazing pasture for sheep.
The shape of the original lake can be clearly recognised by the perfectly flat area with its head just below Applehead Farm and its foot near Whicham Old Hall. It was likely a glaciated valley as the humps at the foot which acted as a dam resemble terminal moraines.
On a clear day, several mountains of the Snowdonia range in North Wales can be seen across the sea at a distance of over 70 miles.
The lane which runs parallel to the main road (to the south) offers beautiful views of the whole of the valley but beware of the narrow steep incline terminating in a tight bend around Po House at the foot. This is not a drive to be attempted by the uninitiated in winter conditions.
Half way down the valley is a set of cottages...once the Fox and Goose Inn.
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