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Old Westmorland's most historic town lies in the fertile Vale of Eden with the Pennine fells rising in a magnificent escarpment to eastward. It claims, with apopulation of just over 1800, to be England's smallest county town and smallest assize town with a history going back before the Norman Conquest. The corporation is one of the oldest, and in 1201 William de Goldington was made the first Mayor.
Appleby was originally the County town of Westmorland, with a Royal Charter dating back to 1174, following the Norman Conquest.
The Romans marched this way, along High Street on the outskirts of the town, to the Wall. Saxons and Normans built churches here, a Scottish king captured the castle, and centuries later Lady Anne Clifford defended it for a king.
The attractive main street with the layout of a mediaeval market town slopes gently downhill from the castle which once gave it protection, to the church. At each end of this street is a tall black and white pillar with a sundial on the top known as Low Cross and High Cross, the latter has an inscription to the loal people 'Retain your loyalty, preserve your rights'.
From High Cross the buildings of the grammar School can be seen across the town where there was a School House Lane as long ago as the mid 15th century, and Queen Elizabeth I granted a Royal Charter to the free Grammar school. One of its scholars was Dr Addison, Dean of Lichfield, father of the essayist, and two others have the immortal name of Washington - Lawrence and Augustine, brothers of the famous President. Lawrence, in fact, was at Appleby School the year George Washington was born.
Though not retaining such an air of importance these days, it is nevertheless an attractive market town with a village atmosphere, and certainly retaining a great deal of interest and charm.
Appleby's main street, Boroughgate, has been described as one of the nicest in England. The avenue of mature lime trees, flanked by well kept properties dating from the 17th to the early 20th century, certainly confirm this. In the lower market area will be found the Moot Hall and which is still used to this day for council meetings. An indication of the age of the building will be found by a plaque over the door which is dated 1596.
On a hill overlooking the town will be found Appleby Castle, one time owned by Lade Anne Clifford. These days, the castle is more known as a conservation centre. Of all her castles, Lady Anne preferred Appleby and spared no expense in repairing the property and making it more hospitable, heating it with coals from her own pits on Stainmore. She restored massive Caesar's Tower and built a small bee-house in a sheltered hollow above the river. The castle has seen stirring times as the valley here lies open to the north and from this direction came William the Lion to capture the stronghold over 800 years ago. During its long history successive owners have altered and extended the buildings. It was Thomas, 8th Lord Clifford, who rebuilt the main block in the 15th century. Two hundred years later Lady Anne Clifford defied Cromwell by restoring the castle to its mediaevalsplendour. There was once a draw-bridge over the moat, and a gatehouse where the entrance today opens on to beautiful lawns. Although many changes have been made to the castle down the centuries much of the old stonework remains, including the 12th century Caesar's Tower, parts of the curtain wall, and the 13th century round tower in the north wall.
The keep is open to the public and is a particularly fine example of Norman architecture. The Great Hall is especially interesting and contains many paintings of the Clifford family...the most important being 'The Great Picture'. Look for display of chinese porcelain salvaged in 1985 from the wreck of the 'Nanking'...a ship that had been on the seabed for over 220 years.
Across the bridge over the Eden is a part of the town known as 'The Sands'. Above the Sands, steep streets of sturdy 19th century terrace houses lead to the railway station of the famous Settle and Carlisle line.
The 12th century church of St Lawrence is well worth visiting even if only to visit the tombs of Lady Anne and her mother Lady Margaret. Beside Lady Anne's well known work in restoring so many of her properties..one which also should be mentioned is St Annes Hospital.
The almshouses at Appleby, known as St Anne's Hospital, was founded in the middle of the seventeenth century by the local landowner Lady Anne, Countess Dowager of Dorset, Pembroke, and Montgomery.
The present site in Boroughgate was bought on the last day of December 1650, having spent £36 on the land where the almhouses are built. Provision was made for the accommodation of twelve Sisters and a Mother (so called still to this day) - the latter to be responsible for general administration in accordance with a set of rules drawn up.
The building itself consists of a quadrange of small self-contained dwellings enclosing a cobbled courtyard with seats and fountain. Overhead in the gate-house, hangs the bell that was rung every three months to call the Mother and her Sisters to receive their small allowance of pocket-money...part of Lady Anne's forethought in view of her strict ordinance forbidding them to run up bills in the town. Visitors are very welcome.
Last,but by no means least, should be mentioned the famous Appleby New Fair (or Horse Fair) renowned as the single biggest gathering of gypsy people in Britain. The fair itself is now well over three hundred years old and these travelling people arrive from all over the country every year on the second wednesday in June to buy and sell horses and race them in the trotting races.
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