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Originally, it was burgh, meaning "lump" (of ground). It is related to the word Iceberg (lump of ice). Even today, a lump of meat (rather than a slice) is called a burger. These "lumps" of ground were perfect for the sites of hill forts and, over the centuries, the word "burgh" began to refer to any fortified place and, even later, to a city or part of a city (borough), even if not fortified. For some inexplicable reason, many "burg"s got trasliterated into "broughs" about 150 years ago. On old maps, this settlement is shown as Burg, whereas on modern maps it is Brough.
Eight miles from Appleby and four miles from Kirkby Stephen, Brough lies at the head of the beautiful Eden Valley, well known to thousands of travellers over the past centuries as a place of shelter and refuge before the pass of Stainmore. Now it is a quiet and friendly village and a haven by-passed by the noise and disturbance of todays traffic.
The Pennines here rise to 2,000 feet and from the roads climbing over the moors to Middleton-in-Teesdale and to Tan Hill (at 1,732 feet the highest Inn in England) magnificent views of the Eden Valley and surrounding mountains are obtained.
Because of its strategic position guarding the passes of Stainmore and Mallerstang, the Romans built an important camp here. The remains of fortifications date back almost 2000 years and are still plainly visible, though these probably superseded earlier ones which have long been lost. The earliest defences are now the ditches and mounds of the two and a half acre Roman fort of Verterae which probably held about 500 infantrymen, traces have been found under the present keep of stone buildings which were probably their barracks.
Outside the gate of the fort remains of the timber clay-floored dwellings of the civilian settlement dating back to the early second century, have been traced in recent excavations.
Norman conquerors reached this area about 1090 and under William Rufus strengthened the defences and built his castle within the northern part of the Roman fort.
The ruins of the Norman Brough Castle today dominates the village of Brough,and dates from the 11th century. The Scots took it in the English incursions of 1174, but it was strengthenedby Robert de Vipont, and although the village was burned in further Scots raids the castle remained unbreached. In the War of the Roses it was held by Lord Clifford, a Lancastrian, but he was killed and the castle was taken by Warwick the Kingmaker. It was restored to the Cliffords by the Tudors. The castle suffered an accidental fire in the 16th centnury and was restored by Lady Anne Clifford, though it was further engulfed in fire in 1666.
The church, dating from Norman times, has a 'leper squint'. Most of the building is 14th century to 16th century. The porch contains a stone inscribed in tribute to a Roman commander of the fort and records its re-building in AD 197. There is also a copy of a memorial found nearby to a Syrian youth, probably in the Roman Army who died at the age of 16.
Market Brough received its charter from Edward III in1330. Markets were held once weekly on the Thursday, and a four day fair was held each September. The last marker was held here in 1867, the only ancient fair remaining now is Brough Hill Fair, which is believed to go back to Roman times, and which is now a popular gypsy gathering held every year at the end of September.
This area, as previously mentioned, was frequently harried by the Scots, and it was not until the Union with Scotland that the first stone-built houses and cottages appeared. In the following more peaceful times, up to 10,000 cattle were regularly driven from Scotland to be sold with local stock at the important market here, and thousands of geese, sheep and cattle changed hands before being driven ove the many wide drove roads which radiated to the developing counties of Yorkshire, Lancashire and further south.
At one time there were the remains of three ancient stone crosses...one had on it the initials B.M.C. and the date 1331. This market cross was the site where one of the ancient local traditions took place on the eve of Epiphany. From early primitive times it had been a tradition to hold a mid-winter fire festival in the village..to encourage the re-birth of the waning sun apparently. Thus are the origins of most Xmas festivities.
This used to take the form of a burning holly bush, which was carried high through the streets at the head of a procession led by a band of musicians.
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