Matlock has been called the most dazzlingly beautiful spot in Britain...another has referred to it as a romantic fragment of Switzerland set in the heart of England. Lord Byron and John Ruskin praised it. But this place of ancient history which the Romans worked for lead has grown to a string of Matlocks stretching for more than two miles, and houses now fill the valley and climb the slopes. They reach almost from Cromford to where the valley broadens out in Darley Dale: Matlock Bath, Matlock Dales, Matlock Bridge, Matlock Town and Matlock Bank.
The story of Matlock Bath comes from 1698 when the first bath was built over a warm spring, with a few small rooms for visitors. Today it is an ever-popular week-end resort, abounding in hotels and villas reached by startling ascents, with riverside gardens and Lovers' Walks, illuminated during the 'Venetian Nights' in late-summer. There are delightful paths through woods and over the hills, for it is here and along the dale that the most beautiful scenery is found. Masson's stupendous bulk, rising 1100 feet above sea-level, shuts in one side of the dale, its wooded Heights of Abraham crowned by a look-out tower commanding a charming view. On the other side of the river the magnificent crag of High Tor rears its naked head straight from the valley floor, a sheer height of more than 350 feet from head to foot. Something to remember is the magnificent panorama from the broad summit of Masson where we see the lovely valley up and down edged by woods and moors, and great hills which only end in the dim outline of Kinder Scout. In the side of the hill are the Rutland Cavern and the Great Masson Cavern, consisting partly of abandoned lead mines said to have been first explored by the Romans. The thermal springs, with their constant temperature of 68 degrees farenheit for which Matlock Bath was once noted, now feed a fishpond beside the pavilion and the swimming pools at the New Bath Hotel. The old Petrifying Well survives, beside a new promenade which runs alongside the river.
The wayside church of 1841, beside the Cromford Road, has an elegant crocketed spire, and was enlarged in 1873. Matlock Bridge, where five ways meet, is busy with shops and pleasant with riverside walks and gardens. The fine 16th century four-arch bridge was widened on one side in 1903. Matlock Bank, on the steep hill-slope above the bridge, came into being with John Smedley, a hosiery manufacturer who, having recovered from a breakdown through a visit to a spa, sought to practise the water cure on others. He made his first experiments on his workpeople at Lea Mills, and the beginning of the great Smedley Hydro was a small house on a site he bought in 1852. Out of the fortune he made with air and water John Smedley built Riber Castle, where he might catch the breezes from 850 feet above sea-level, and he died here in 1874. The vast hydropathic establishment was converted in 1958 into the offices for the county council, who were transferred from Derby.
Matlock Town, high above the river, is the oldest of the Matlocks and the original village. Old houses line the steep and narrow road through it. On a knoll close by is a church with an old story, though much rebuilt; above the church by a green is a 17th century house which has been an inn. A lynchgate opens to the fine church-yard, from whose upper end we look up the Derwent Valley. The embattled tower with four handsome pinnacles is of the 15th century, almost the only old work left in the fabric now. Some older relics are outside the church, including carved and moulded stones, and a Norman coffin-stone with a cross and a sword. The strangely carved font, also Norman, is now back in the church after being long in the rectory garden. One of the eight bells is older than the Reformation. The most engaging possession of the church is hanging just inside the door, a set of six paper garlands. They have a pathetic appeal, for they were carried in the funeral processions of betrothed maidens who died too soon to marry. Such garlands are also to be found at Ashford-in-the-Water and Trusley.
There are so many delightful attractions to visit in this part of Derbyshire, it has to be somewhat difficult to know quite where to start. One supposes that 'The Heights of Abraham', is perhaps the most sign-posted attraction around, and probably the one, for that very reason, most visitors will go to first. 'The Heights' is certainly Derbyshire's oldest tourist attraction, though with its comparatively recent (1984) addition of an alpine cable car system probably makes it one of the most progressive of attractions too. On arrival at the summit there is plenty to do for everyone with two spectacular caves to tour the Great Rutland Cavern-Nestus Mine, and the Great Masson Cavern and which are introduced by a multimedia presentation bringing alive the creation of this amazing underground world. Within High Falls which is located in a sparkling waterscaped setting is a display of Mega Rocks and Dinosaurs. Here too there is an Owl Maze, a woodland trail and play area, and the Victoria Prospect Tower which commands a magnificent panorama. the Peak District Mining Museum should be on your agenda....promoted as being Britain's most exciting mining museum and underground visit, this all year round attraction offers two floors of displays along with shafts top climb, working pumps....even the opportunity of panning for minerals ...in fact 2,500 years of lead mining and mineral working in one place.
The Whistlestop Countryside Centre is one of those free exhibitions which everybody should see. The centre is housed in the old railway station at Matlock Bath and is under the care and control of the Derbyshire Wildlife Trust, which, of course, the centre is all about. Here visitors will see an excellent countryside exhibition, having the opportunity of viewing a video shop all about wildlife in the region, and, if they wish taking away the odd souvenir or two from a well stocked craft and gift section. A wildlife garden complete with pond adjoins the building.
Speaking of something for everyone - if you haven't already been satisfied with the sights and sounds of this old town than perhaps a few hours of fantasy is more to your scene. Gulliver's Kingdom, as their literature states transports you away from the day to day worries into a world of wonder and fantasy. Enjoy the sounds of laughter and fun in Fantasy Land, mosey on into the Old Wild West with its fortress and jail or back in time and underground in their Royal Mine Ride, embark on a voyage of discovery in the Jules Verne Nautilus, or to the Elizabethan Street where odd things go bump in the 'Ghost House'.
On a more down to earth excursion why not pop in to the Riber Castle Wildlife Park...home to many rare breeds as well as endangered species. Here will be seen, in as natural habitat as possible, their famous 'Riber Lynx Collection' together with arctic foxes, wild boar, wallabies, reindeer, otters, along with many other intriguing creatures.
For visitors of an equestrian mind than the Red House Stables and Working Carriage Museum will certainly be their first 'port of call', This museum has one of the finest collections of original horse drawn vehicles and equipment in Britain. The present collection consists of nearly 40 carriages, including one of the very few surviving Hansom cabs, a stage coach, Royal Mail coach, Park Drag, and numerous other private and commercial vehicles. An unusual aspect of the collection is that is a working museum
and the owner ensures that the vehicles are regularly out on the road being used. Also you too can take a fascinating look behind the scenes at the vast array of spotlessly kept harness and tack, admire the collection of collars, travelling chests and boxes, plus the fine collection of coach horns. Finally you can meet the real workers...the 22 horses and ponies who work at the Red House Stable Carriage Museum. On certain days of the year the carriages make trips through Derbyshire countryside, which also allows for a sight-seeing tour of Chatsworth Park and Haddon Hall. Visitors staying longer than just one day in the region may be interested in knowing that the Museum offers driving courses and horse-riding opportunities.
The National Tramway Museum simply has to appeal to all ages and sexes...In the beginning there was no time and no place...it was just men with a mission and a desire to rescue and restore as many trams as possible. These founders of the future came to this spot one day to remove the former narrow gauge rails on behalf of Talyllyn Railway. They found an abandoned quarry, a stone shed dating from 1842 (unwittingly bequeathed by George Stephenson) and a potential site.....here was the birth of the National Tramway Museum. Here will be found many trams running every few minutes, through the beautiful Period Street and up and on to open countryside and panoramic views. An excellent variety too...open, closed, double deck, single deck, horse drawn, steam as well as vintage electric. Trams that visitors will see have been carefully selected and collected from Prague to Portugal, South Africa to Southampton and New York to Yorkshire. An unusual idea is the one that offers owners of classic vehicles the opportunity of free admission provided their car is parked in the 'Period' street for a minimum of two hours.
Finally many people would be visiting Matlock solely to view the excellent paintings by Pollyanna Pickering. Polyanna's private gallery at Oaker just outside of Matlock is open at varying dates of the year, where, being one of Europe's foremost wildlife artists, her work is much sought after by discerning collectors, and her exhibitions should not be missed. A recent exhibition of her work, as an example, covered a recent trip of hers to China, and showed some 40 original paintings inspired by her journey, and which included Giant Pandas and other Chinese wildlife.
